1. SOIL PREPARATION
Before removing an old lawn spray with Roundup (Glyphosate) at the recommeneded rate to kill the old lawn and any weeds. Allow 2 weeeks to take effect. Remove before bringing in new soil or soil improver.

When preparing to lay your new lawn, the soil preparation is considered the most important stage in your lawn's establishment. Depending on the quality of soil already there, we recommend applying at least 100mm of lawn mix soil or black topsoil to the area. This allows for deep penetration of air, moisture and roots.

2. LEVELLING
Remove any debris - leaves, twigs, roots, rocks, weeds from the soil area. Level and shape the ground when the soil is dry using a straightboard. Allow 30mm below paths, driveways etc. for the grass to be laid on top and remain level with surrounding surface. Soil water repellency may be overcome with the use of a wetting agent, such as Richgro's Ezi-Wet soil wetter.

Please note: If reticulation is to be installed, now is the stage to install the system. The sprinkler heads should be positioned 20mm above the surface of the soil allowing for the height of the lawn. Reticulation is strongly recommended for establishing any lawn, particularly through summer.

3. SOIL IMPROVEMENT
After levelling the ground we recommend the use of a soil improver such as 'Palmetto Underlay' and/or 'Moisture-Worx'. Generally 1 bag of each per 10m2. This thin layer can be raked through the top of 50mm of soil. This will improve the water holding capacity of the soil and provide essential nutrients. Level the ground after raking and mixing through the soil.

Just before laying your turf, we recommend wetting the soil and spreading Turf Start or Dynamic Lifter at a rate of 20kg per 100m2. This slow release organic fertiliser naturally helps the new turf in root development. Also use a wetting agent, such as Richgro's "Ezi-Wet" soil wetter, if not using "Moisture-Worx."

4. LAYING
Turf rolls should be laid as soon as possible after delivery. Lay the turf rolls in a stretcherbond pattern as you would in brickpaving (as shown in diagram). Butt joints tightly but do not overlap edges. Use a steak knife to cut turf to fit curves, edges, sprinkler heads etc.

5. WATERING
On hot days, lay the turf in sections and water well to prevent drying. On cooler days the entire area can be laid before watering. Water the completed lawn surface thoroughly. Repeat watering at regular intervals to keep turf moist at all times, until rooted. Be sure to take care that the water is saturating the soil beneath the turf.

The first 10 days after installation are critical. In the colder months the turf will take longer to establish. The turf should not dry out until the roots are established.

See 'Lawn Care' for watering schedule to Establish a New Lawn.

6. COMPACTING/ROLLING
After laying all turf, water in well and roll with a heavy roller or compact with a plate compactor to eliminate irregularities and to form good contact between turf and soil. Watering with a hose in front of the compactor will help.

7. TOPDRESSING
Topdressing very lightly using a lawn mix or clean sandy soil will help to stop the joints drying out and improve the level, but it is not vital.

8. FERTILISER
Lawns need to be fed to remain strong and healthy. Apply a good lawn fertiliser (we recommend the use of 'Palmetto Premium Lawn Fertiliser') at a rate of 2kg per 100 sq. metres about 8 weeks after laying.

Use a complete fertiliser in early April and early September. A slow release fertiliser should be used for all regular 8 weekly feeds. If you need to green up quickly, apply fertiliser high in nitrogen to promote lush green lawn. Do not use a fertiliser with added weed killer on Buffalo lawns.

9. MOWING
Mow your instant lawn lightly within 7-10 days after installation in the warmer months and after it has taken root in the the colder months.

PLANTING OF STOLONS (RUNNERS)

Stolons are chopped sections of runners and stems of grasses, each section having nodes (joints) which will produce growth when properly planted and grown. Being vegetively propagated from selected strains, stolons are true-to-type, grow quickly, and are weed free.

Planting runners is best done in the warmer months of Spring, Summer and early Autumn. Turf establishment through the use of stolons is an accepted, inexpensive and widely proven practice.

1. SOIL PREPARATION
Before removing an old lawn spray with Roundup (Glyphosate) at the recommeneded rate to kill the old lawn and any weeds. Allow 2 weeeks to take effect. Remove before bringing in new soil or soil improver.

When preparing to lay your new lawn, the soil preparation is considered the most important stage in your lawn's establishment. Depending on the quality of soil already there, we recommend applying at least 100mm of lawn mix soil or black topsoil to the area. This allows for deep penetration of air, moisture and roots.

2. LEVELLING
Remove any debris - leaves, twigs, roots, rocks, weeds from the soil area. Level and shape the ground when the soil is dry using a straightboard. Allow 25-30mm below paths, driveways etc. for the grass to be laid on top and remain level with surrounding surface. Soil water repellency may be overcome with the use of a soil wetting agent.

PLEASE NOTE: If reticulation is to be installed, now is the stage to install the system. The sprinkler heads should be positioned 20mm above the surface of the soil allowing for the height of the lawn. Reticulation is strongly recommended for establishing any lawn, particularly through summer.

3. SOIL IMPROVEMENT
After levelling the ground we recommend the use of a soil improver such as 'Palmetto Underlay' and/or 'Moisture-Worx'. Generally 1 bag of each per 10m2. This thin layer can be raked through the top of 50mm of soil. This will improve the water holding capacity of the soil and provide essential nutrients. Level the ground after raking and mixing through the soil.

4. RUNNERS
Spread the shredded runners evenly over the soil surface at a rate of one ten litre bucketful to 6 square metres. Work in manageable areas of not more than 18 square metres at a time so as to avoid exposed runners drying out. Spread as evenly as possible to ensure even coverage. This cannot be done in windy conditions. Note: Buffalo runners should be planted in rows approximately 150mm apart. Skip Step 4 and go straight to Step 5.

5. ROLLER/DISC
Roll the runners into the soil surface with a disc bladed roller making sure that all runners are buried. Roll the disc in several different directions ensuring that most of the runners are pressed firmly into, and beneath the soil surface.

Roll the area with a cylinder roller making sure all runners are buried. A criss-cross action may be necessary to ensure proper planting. This ensures close contact of runners and soil needed for prompt growth. It also enables you to flatten out any irregularities and form an extremely even lawn.

6. WATERING
Thoroughly water each section immediately after planting as runners will quickly die if left in dry hot soil. Thereafter, planted areas will require irrigation for 3-5 minutes several times daily to ensure rapid root development.

7. FERTILISER
Apply a lawn starter organic fertiliser after planting at a rate of 100gms per square metre (approx. 1/2 cup full). From then on a recommended lawn fertiliser (such as 'Palmetto Premium lawn Fertiliser') should be applied lightly every two weeks until maturity is reached.